Sunday, January 3, 2016

On the Ninth Day of Christmas: ziplining and leaving - Fiji, Jan. 2, 2016

Well, an hour was just barely enough time to do some suitcase shoving, a few loads of trash, and packing for the next few days. The resort kindly has a courtesy shower, so I won't have to go gross straight from ziplining to the airport. 

Checkout went smoothly enough for me, though their printers were down because the new year changed their taxes. When I was in Nadi later in the afternoon, it was also posted everywhere that prices were cheaper because the VAT had gone down. 

In the case of the resort and the ziplining, the new year was higher prices - a new environmental tax being added to the room and $10 Fijian more for the ziplining tour. 

Since it took me a few minutes to settle up and store my bags, it was good my ride was a few minutes late as well. We picked up nearly a dozen people at the other resorts, then headed south. In fact, the ziplining was a few miles past Scuba Bula!

They got us geared up, with harnesses, helmets, and gloves, and the group was off. I kept my waterproof camera, but others were given opposing instructions on what to do with their cellphones. 

One couple left theirs at the base, and I offered to take some pictures to share with them later. Karen and Adrian were newlyweds from Melbourne, and it was a pretty easy way to make some travel buddies for the day. 

First was a couple flights of stairs up in the jungle, and, when we stopped at the first zipline, the mosquitos descended. We eventually climbed enough to get out of their territory, but that first stop was a killer. 

I haven't done treetop ziplining before, only one line that ended in a lake and didn't involve a harness. I've rappelled before, though, and it's the same harness, so it was an easy lean back and slide!

It was zip, climb, zip, climb, until I asked if we could go upside down. Then the first bit of thrill started. 

The second came when we got above the canopy and could see out to the ocean. It was some awesome views, while barreling along a cable. 

I had forgotten it was included, but once we hit the top of the hill, we walked into a cave that I assumed had bats flying in and out. It was only when one of the "bats" landed on another visitor that we realized they were swallows! It looked hurt, since it had been shaken off, but the stiff posture was actually just its natural pose - wings straight out, instead of folding back as expected. The guide kindly explained to us that the slippery mud, and the huge black pile behind us, were bird droppings. Not sure if that or the fact this cave was used by cannibals before the missionaries came to the island to preach love over eating each other was more off-putting. 

The cave was limestone, with some great stalactites, and the constant dripping you'd expect. It is said to be the largest in Fiji. Further into the cave (or perhaps in a neighboring cave, the gesture was ambiguous), the natives had created a burial ground. As if a cave needed more to be creepy.

We were done climbing, and everyone had gotten the technique down, so it was easy riding back down to the base house. We had some discussions on the pecularities of English dialects (they thought Kleenex was weird, I thought the fact that biscuits are cookies and scones are biscuits was confusing).

Back at home base, we had a chicken and potato Phillipino curry waiting for us. Karen had mentioned her lack of breakfast, so it was a happy crew with a hearty meal in us that went back on the buses.

We ran into traffic outside of Nadi, and, to save myself a dollar, I asked to get dropped off outside of Jack's, the locally owned department store. I was on a quest for a Fijian rugby jersey. 

Well, I found a good half dozen of them, but all of them strangely had the logo of the shop they were in on them. I had gotten to the end of the row when I decided it was time to ask for help. 

I found a group of teenage boys wearing football kits and asked them. Tappoo's, they said without much thought, you'll find them there. 

It was, of course, the only store that was past Jack's on the other side, so I trotted my way back down Main Street, Nadi, and found what I wanted four feet inside the store. 

I saw the allure of free WIFI and air conditioning at a corner cafe (really, The Corner Cafe was its name) and plopped down for a mango shake and some internet browsing. 

As my time expired, I decided to get the massage we'd been talking about for the entire week. I'd seen some sketchy hand-written signs pointing to second-story salons - couldn't be a bad idea, right?

I asked for a back massage after climbing the closest staircase, and, after a few minute wait, was led into a room with a table covered with a towel. I lay down, and the hole where I put my face smelled vaguely like stale wood. The crying baby in the room nearby was an interesting soundtrack. 

But, man, she really worked at the knots in my back. I'm still feeling it. The baby stopped crying, the oil headed up, and I was relaxed. Or, at least, when she wasn't digging her fist into my shoulder where the balls of stress were. 

The alarm for the half hour went off, and I gave her the last of my bills and walked straight on to the bus to Denarau outside. 

I spent the next three hours reading, then showered in the hospitality suite (which might double as a sales showroom when they have appointments - a full suite on the upgraded side of the resort). I finished my grooming, shoved the last of my things into my suitcase, then had a final drink and bowl of taro chips as the wind whipped my wet hair on the beach. 

When the little pellets of rain started, it was essentially time to catch my cab anyway. Easy ride to the airport, especially after being told the cyclone warning was over, and I got onto the plane. Bye bye, Fiji!

On the Eighth Day of Christmas: diving and driving rain - Fiji, Jan. 1, 2016

I had to be up and out by 8:30, and Deanne did too, to catch her ride with Joss to the airport. Joss was there on time - my ride to the Sofitel where Adrenaline dives from was a bit later. Maria came down with us and we chitchatted, and found another couple that was from Alaska and snorkeling with the divers. 

Well, they were hoping to snorkel with the divers. When we got the five-minutes away, they were told the seas were too choppy for snorkeling. 

And were they right. After a good check-in (though nothing could be as efficient as with Scuba Bula), we were on the first boat, which really only took us the fifty feet to where the dive boat was moored. 

There were five of us, plus three staff, including Joseph, our guide. He gave us a boat briefing, then we started out to the reef. 

It was a bucking forty-five minute ride to the island we'd be diving near, just inside the barrier reef. It was the first chance of many to be seasick, but all of us seemed to handle it well (though quietly). There was a bit of excitement as the captain yelled swordfish, but all I saw was what looked like a dolphin jump! I forgot to ask them if that was what they were actually saying, or if there were just both. 

Once we got to the island, we spent probably fifteen minutes circling the island to find the best conditions for diving. We would stop, Joseph and the captain would yell back and forth, sometimes he would jump into the waves to look down at the sea floor. Joseph was in and out of the boat three times before we were even in once!

They must have either found the right place or given up on anything being calm, and we were told to jump in, congregate at the front of the boat, then descend. 

Once we were down a few meters, it was a swaying surge, with a slight bit of current, but nothing unmanageable. And boy, was it worth it. It was supposedly a wall dive, but we stayed near the top, pretty much, and then finished along the sloping ridge of it. 

The diversity of coral was stunning. Many fish, lots of soft corals swaying about, and hard coral of so many colors. Maria and Valerie both asked me about the muted colors they experienced while snorkeling. It's like that diving as well - the water filters out the short wavelengths, such as red, quickly, and eventually the others as well. If you have a dive light or a flash camera, you can add those colors back in. 

It was among my shorter dives - one of the guys was really pedaling instead of hovering, though I'm not sure if he was the one that used his air fastest. The guide was only planning on doing 45 minutes anyway. 

Joseph had us at a pretty brisk pace, and we had to loop back around to let a guy catch up. About halfway through the dive, we came upon a sea turtle, who coasted past us and to some more serene pastures, I'm sure. There were giant sea slugs, fish of the rainbow, including some big parrotfish, clownfish, surgeonfish, and more. (Clearly the sea turtle was the highlight.)

I had some difficulties with my buoyancy during the safety stop, and Joseph ended up holding me down. We got to the surface together, then were on the end of the life ring that was thrown out to us. The boat buckled, and we were thrown off. 

I put my regulator back in, and we swam gripping each other for over five minutes in the choppy sea as the boat circled us, trying to get close. 

I wasn't panicked - why not spend a bit of surface interval playing in the waves? We were plenty buoyant, and I had my snorkel if the tank ran out. 

We got on the boat pretty tired from swimming though. It was off again, bumping over the waves to get to our next dive site. I chatted with a gal from Australia who was asking about how the NFL worked. Apparently rugby doesn't have a lot of female fans, so she's looking elsewhere for her fandom. (Don't tell Mark, but I might have "accidentally" made her a Steelers fan.)

We again jumped in and descended quickly to reduce the time being swept back and forth at the surface. Joseph again set us on a brisk pace, on a bit of a hill with some monochromatic corals and a sandy bottom we could see. 

A few minutes into the dive, Joseph started tapping his tank, then pointed out in the blue (well, more brown in this water - the visibility was decent at 15 meters) at the reef shark that was swimming by! We saw another three chilling on the bottom a few minutes further on - I didn't do the Fiji shark dive where they feed them and always get sharks. Because it was less guaranteed, it was more special. 

We rose up the ridge to find a moray hiding - not very well - in a crevice. With a sandy bottom between coral nubs, we got a chance to see (and disturb) two blue-spotted stingrays!

I made it on to the boat this time without nearly as much pomp and circumstance. We bumped our way back to shore (I felt every minute of that 45 minute ride), and spent ten minutes trying to wrangle the smaller boat near enough to ours to get us on it. I should've just jumped in. Well, except for my phone and towel and all that. 

I got Joseph to sign my book, then it was back to the Wyndham and the empty room that awaited. 

I showered, then spent some time anxious about what I was going to do on my final day. Diving was out, since I had a plane to get on. Should I rent a car and drive to the national park? Well, reviews said you need 4WD, so that was out. I looked at a few of the brochures, but my apathy and loneliness had me avoiding the issue by reading on the porch. 

The serenaders came by, and their singing (and maybe a bit of reading and relaxing) spurred me into action. I booked some zip lining, though only the morning tour was running. There's a cyclone coming, didn't you know?

No. No I did not know. Rosie, the tour agent, didn't give me a lot of optimism when I asked if my flight the next day should be ok. She just shrugged. Sunday is the day it is supposed to come closest to the island, she said. 

I thought about rushing to the airport to see if I could make my flight a day earlier, but diving then flying is risky. I spent the rest of the evening wishing a Happy New Year (finally, 18 hours later) to the East Coast, and watching the culturally important "Step It Up 2: All In". I finished the majority of the contents of the fridge - fried rice, quinoa, and turned the peanut butter, bananas, and chocolate kisses into a great frozen shake dessert. Oh, and I watched just enough of the live action 101 Dalmations to realize Doctor House's actor was one of the goons. 

I didn't do any packing though, so an alarm is set for 6:50am - hopefully an hour is enough time!