Early on in our hike, we heard the constant refrains of "jib jib" - "up up." However, it was still being used today even though we were going down, down, down...
Our camp was in the rainforest, so we had a little shade when we were getting up this morning, which made it a cool start. Talitha and I were the only ones still eating the porridge, but the toast and jam went quick. Not so much with the hotdog-looking sausages.
After breakfast, we were having a ceremony to meet all of the staff. We gathered outside the tent, and thirty people stood in front of us. There were 21-odd porters and helpers, along with all our guides. The eight of us gawked (and videoed) as they clapped and chanted and danced and sang. The main lyrics were "Hakuna matata, Kilimanjaro", with some "haribu"s ("welcome") sprinkled in.
We were singing "Hit the Road, Jack" shortly thereafter, since it was a more maintained but just as long path this morning as yesterday afternoon. We trundled down, trying to make record time, but really only just walking down through the forest.
It was staccatoed with a few interesting things. There were the "skunk monkeys" (blue monkeys, I think) in the trees at one point. There were some pretty awesome trees that were hollowed out. And the flowers picked up as well, with some pink and yellow orchid-looking ones.
But in general, it was a path with a foot drop every yard or so (that's in imperial measurements, of course). We saw the stairs being maintained as we were walking down, as well as the first of the "Kilimanjaro Express" stretchers on a single wheel. We caught a glimpse of one person going down early in the morning, but for the most part, it was only hikers like us defending (and the "porter on the right" call every fifty feet).
Hours later (actually roughly three or four to walk the 10k), we got to the forest clearing that was Mweka Gate. Once we left the park, the street sellers jumped on us like hounds. Tshirts, bracelets, figurines - all for "cheap" and "good price for you, sister." I ended up haggling for some cute wooden figurines of "trigga" (giraffe), even though we haven't seen any yet. Cross your fingers that tomorrow is the day!
Duncan and I caught up with Alisa and Stuart (sorry, I've been spelling his name wrong this whole time) in the line to sign out. We finished that process, found Talitha, who was surprisingly only twenty minutes behind. It was time to hit the real road! The big yellow-ish bus (we called it "Lemon Symphony" after the tea we've been drinking at breakfast) rolled through banana and coffee farms before getting back to Moshi.
Tipping is expected, and we had an interesting time trying to understand when and how much was appropriate. One guide mentioned we should do it at Mweka Gate, before we got back to the hotel. Since part of us only had cash back at the hotel, that wasn't going to work. Also, the suggested tipping guidelines from Zara were back at the hotel as well. So we had a piece of paper with the number of guides, assistant guides, porters, cooks, waiters, toilet porters, etc. waiting for us when we got back to the hotel. From what I could gather from the confusing conversations was that the government could see it and tax it if it was written down, but not if we had just given it to them under the table. It was a bit frustrating that it was that confusing, but everyone was nice about it, so that made it easier to be treasurer. I was kinda on Stuart's side by the end - just pay them fair wage and then we wouldn't have to deal with it.
We ended up working out tipping at the buffet lunch at the hotel. After we did, part of the group dispersed to take showers. I knew I couldn't until Alisa was done (with shorter hair, hers shows the grease more, so I was happy to concede.)
In a show of more typical African disorganization, Babu came up to tell us that they were waiting in the courtyard for us. We weren't expecting to meet until 6 for the certificate ceremony, and now they wanted to meet at 3.
So we eventually gathered the group up, figured out that they wanted the tips now to distribute to the porters who were waiting for them, and decided to go ahead and do the certificate ceremony then so there wasn't anymore confusion.
It was a fun couple hours, except that I really wanted a shower. It was just meters away! But we were presented the certificates and got yellow leis (with each person getting a chanted song and dance along with it), then Tracy gave a speech about the guides and their camaraderie and helpfulness. I presented the tips then skipped off to our orientation for our safari tomorrow.
To be honest, I was done with the big, loud group, just ready for the shower. Bruce came up while we were filling in the paperwork to tell me I skipped out on them. There was a grain of truth to that, but I let him hug me and then jumped in the shower for twenty minutes.
The rest of the afternoon was hanging out by the hotel, then deciding to go back into Moshi for Indoitaliano, where we had great Indian food over a week ago. Our group of five (the Kentucky crew were going to try to wait for Babu to come and show them the town) turned into eight with others from a Zara group, then back to five when they had more to wait for. The bus that was supposed to leave at 7:15 didn't leave until 7:45, then there was a wait at the restaurant. After a trip to the ATM, our table was ready and it was a long time before we were done. Service was even slower than the first time, they ran out of paneer, and then, after we got our food and some naan was missing, they ran out of that too. Alisa's food was too spicy, Duncan's rice came out ten minutes after his sizzling plate, and we were just not pleased. But, we were fed, had the ice cream Alisa has been talking about all week, and were ready for bed.
One crammed cab ride later, and we were back at Springlands. It was weird saying goodbye - hadn't thought of that part. The Kentucky guys had ended up at the restaurant too, so we were able to say goodbye to them there. Then Talitha peeled off. Then it was just us and Stuart and Duncan. Then they went to bed and now it's just Alisa and me for the rest of the trip. Less chaos, but I'm going to miss all of them.
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